I’m still behind on blogging what I’m currently working on. There’s plenty of new photos in the build section of the gallery and I’ll eventually get some down time and catch up.

I finally unwrapped the remaining blue parts I painted over the weekend. They came out okay, but not great. The power coupler shown below had some paint leak underneath the tape and I had to clean it up. I used my old friend “Acetone” who seems to work great on a lot of stuff these days, like oozing silicon and epoxy. I just have to remember to use it in a well ventilated space.

The tape also lifted up a chunk of paint on one of power couplers, but I think it’ll do for now.

Here’s the coin slot and octagon port, note the paint lifting at the edge again. I’m gonna have to learn how to do this masking right someday.

And, I couldn’t resist trying some of the parts out for size

I also assembled some of the other parts now that they’re painted. These are Daniel D’s small vents, they’re very cool and over engineered to make my life a little easier to install them. They should be a snap to get into the frame.

On the other hand, the large side vents don’t have any screws to hold the plate in place. I’ve tried silicon to hold them together, but I’m not sure if it’s going to hold and I may need to try epoxy. I’m hoping to bond a bracket to the back to allow me to screw it to the frame somehow.

I decided to redo the front vent louvers. I’d originally hot glued the pieces together, but it didn’t hold so I borrowed another trick from Victor and used some silver foil tape instead. I’ve no idea why I had this in my tool bag, but I did and it saved me my daily trip to Ace Hardware 🙂

This stuff is super sticky and seems to hold the structure together really well. I’m not sure if you can see it in the picture but along the sides and corners are strips of the silver foil tape.

Click on the image to see a close up shot.

Once the piece is flipped around and in place you’ll not be able to see the tape

I also forgot to post this photo a few weeks ago where I sanded down the surface of the front vent surrounds. I’m pretty sure these are water cut or something, and the finish will be beaded when you get them – they look more like they’ve been painted with rattle can aluminum paint instead. A quick once over with some sandpaper fixes it.

In closing here’s a quick photo of a bunch of parts ready to install in the skins

I’ve had an incredible busy weekend working on R2. I’m getting close to re-assembling him with all the skins and parts bolted on and everything painted.

If you’re browsing the gallery for new photos you’ve probably spot a lot of new work over the weekend. I tend to upload photos quicker than I can blog them here 🙂

Throughout the 4 day holiday weekend I’ve been slowly prepping and painting everything that I could, including the legs, feet, ankles etc. Every time there was some downtime I’d turn around pick something up of my paint table, take it outside and give it another coat. I must have applied 3 or 4 coats of the white by now. The paint job isn’t perfect but it’ll do for now, plus I’ll probably be weathering him at some point soon.

I also finished painting all the remaining blue pieces, mostly body detail parts like the octagon ports, power couplers and vents . Once the skins are done and fixed to the frame I’ll be in good shape to start mounting the parts.

I started to use a self etching primer on some of the latest alu parts. I’d been looking for a self etching primer locally for a while and I finally found some in stock at Kragen’s. The problem with the small local auto places is that they seem to only carry one can of some paints, and refuse to special order – so each time I looked they were out. Anyway, it got lucky this time and I picked up the Duplicolor primer (olive green top.) You can see the olive colored parts in the first photo.

I guess my new hypo blue formula is

Duplicolor Self Etching Primer – wait 30
Rustoleum White Primer – wait 30 (maybe apply 2nd coat after 15 mins)
Rustoleum Purple – wait 30-45
Duplicolor – wait 30-45
Rustoleum Clear Coat (maybe two coats)

The biggest thing I probably worked on was gluing the skins together. I’d flip flopped a few times on how how I was going to do this. I really like how Victor has left the inner skins unpainted to show off the panel detail. But having an aluminum frame makes it a lot harder to mount the skins separately, so I’d probably need to paint them in one go. I’d considered using silicon to bond things together, but from some tests I’d done with some of the doors panels, it delaminates at the edges too easily. Cleanup is also hard and it’s difficult to remove all the excess silicon. If you’ve ever tried to paint over silicon you’ll know how bad that can be. The door panels I’d glued together had small fish-eye marks once I painted them. I think I can work around it, but all the other panels will be epoxied I think.

After a bunch of emails back and forth with friends, and a phone call or two – In the end I opted to use a cheap home-brand 60 minute epoxy from Ace Hardware. It’s supposed to setup in 60 minute, hard to the touch/movable in 4 hours and sets fully in 24, but even after 2 hours it was still very soft. Which was good news as it allowed me plenty of time to clean up the excess that squished out. I only had enough clamps for one half of the skins so I tackled the back set first. I’m hoping to get to the front set tonight then on to mounting them on the frame.

I think in the end there was over 60 clamps, paper snaps and clothes pegs stuck to the frame.

This morning the skins had definitely stiffened up, and I’m glad that I’d made sure they were sitting in the correct curved shape I marked on the workbench before going to bed.

Talking of mounting the skins I’ve flip flopped on how best to do this too. Like anything to do with R2 building there always more than one way to go, and there is never a right or wrong answer. I have skin mounting systems from Daniel and Darren, both are very different with pros and cons to each. Darren’s quick snap mounts are made from plastic and allow quick and easy removal, where as Daniel’s are aluminum and require screws to hold everything together. Having experimented with both I’m opting to go with Daniel’s mounting blocks for now.

I also worked on getting the skirt finished this weekend. I didn’t quite finish it ready for painting, but I did get the strips mounted. It probably took close to 4 hours to drill and tap all the small holes.

I started off by marking up where the strips would go and drilling a series of holes.

I then clamped each strip one by one into place, center punched through where the strip needed to be drilled, tapped the hole, reattached to the skirt, repeat for the second hole. That’s a total of 48 holes and 24 taps needed. I also had to cut down each screw as they were too long!

The holes in the strips do not go all the way through, so tapping them was hard and didn’t leave much for the 4-40 screws to hold onto.

Each strip had to be tweaked and filed to get it to fit, and due to the construction of the skirt, some strips are too long and need filing down in length. I’m also going to have to bondo/fill in the gaps before painting.

I’m sure there was more done this weekend, but that seems to cover most of it for now.

The last couple of days I’ve been trying out different paint samples. Mostly focusing on the Krider method of layering the Rustoleum / Duplicolor Anodized and varying the amount or number of layers.

I used Rustoleum White Primer, Rustoleum Metallic Purple for the middle coat and Duplicolor Anodized Blue for the top coat.

First test came out too dark and not enough of the Purple sparkle came through due to putting on 2 coats of the final Anodized Blue. But it was nice and I was happy how easy it went on and how forgiving it was.

The spray can tops are there for reference. One on the left is the Duplicolor Anodized Blue and the right is the Rustoleum Metallic Cobalt Blue. Here’s a better photo showing the contrast of the Cobalt Blue and my first Purple/Blue mix –

Next test was a disaster. Victor told me to paint till the thing looked really wet, so I did. I waited 40 minutes then applied the top coat and then everything started to mix and swirl. I guess I put on way too much paint. But I’d rather learn the mistake on this than on R2. I decide to clear coat it anyway thinking at least some of it may look okay. Disaster is on the left. Click for a close up.

Next test I applied much lighter coats for both the purple and the blue and that’s the middle piece above next to the disaster on the left, and my original piece on the right. Here’s another close up indoors tonight.

I’m much happier with this. It’s a lot more shinny, not so blue believe it or not and in low light it’s very dark blue which I wanted.
More tests over the weekend.

Spent the night researching and thinking about the R2 Blue I’ll use. I know I’ll never be 100% screen accurate as there’s no such thing due to all the lighting changes and various R2s used over the years. But I really do like the original purpley blue and would like to get as close to it or th the R2-D2 Hypothetical Blue (or Hypo Blue for short) without busting the bank.

Here’s a good example of how different paints were used on screen used R2’s

Custom paint is probably out of the question and there seems to be 3 current popular variations on the blue builders are using. Only one of which IMHO has a true rich purple undertone.

So in no particular order, here’s a rough list of what I could find people using today –

Calvin and PixelFiend are using Duplicolor Royal Blue (AutoZone), with a Rustoleum Black Primer and Duplicolor Clear Coat.

Ed/Ryan are using Rustoleum Cobalt Blue Metallic #7251 (Orchard) with a Rustoleum Clear Coat. I also used the Cobalt Blue on my X-wing helmet 4 years ago and have included samples in the comparison shot.

Victor uses a variation on the Krider Blue method –

Rustoleum white primer, #1981
Rustoleum Metallic Purple, #7255 (some Ace Hardware stores)
Dupli-Color Anodized Blue, #MC201 (Kragen)
Rustoleum Crystal Clear Enamel, #7701

I spent 4 hours on Saturday driving around finding samples of each to do my own testing. The most difficult to find was the Duplicolor blue as all the Autozones locally only carried it in small 5oz cans, and then only had one at each store. When I asked if they could special order they said no, and that the ordering system is automated and to expect more in on Wednesday – but the issue is they will only drop off one 5oz can to replace the can i bought!

So before I blew thru almost $60 of paint I thought I’d try and pull together a few images of various samples I could find from fellow builders and comparisons to movie shots. The image is huge so please be patient with the download.

The Krider Blue is certainly closest to the Hypo Blue, especially when looking at stills from the new movies, and in some photos the Duplicolor Royal Blue is close, but in others it’s way off and really doesn’t have the purple punch I’m looking for! Plus it might take me months to get a good supply.

I like the Cobalt Blue on my X-wing helmet, but it’s too dark and doesn’t have much of any purple in it.

I was hoping I could get close to the Original Trilogy R2 blue, but I don’t think I will be able, so I’m think I’m going to start my tests by copying Victor’s Krider method and if it’s easy, stick with that – but if it looks like it’s a pain move on to test the Duplicolor.