I’d previously mentioned the problem I have that the rear logic display requires 24v to run.

I’m considering using some slim 12v battery packs to run all the dome electronics as I’d rather not run a seperate 24v line up from the main batteries.
For Example, these batteries may do the trick –

2 x 12V 3000 mAh NiMH Battery Packs for Airsoft Guns or 2 thin 12V SLA 2200 mAh Batteries

Apart from rear logic my dome electronics can mostly run on anything from 9v – 12v. I’d connect the 12v batteries in series to make 24v for the rear logic and tapping off one to get the 12v. Maybe balancing circuits off each 12v battery to help spread the load.

I’m hoping for a 6-8 hour runtime on a single charge and a breakdown on the mA required are as follows –
2 x PSI (9v) = 100 mA each, 200mA total
2 x Front Logic Displays (9v) = 50mA total
108 LED Rear Logic Display (24v) = 1-5mA for the PIC Flasher, 45 mA for the LEDs, 50mA total
Front Holoprojector = Undecided/Unknown. Estimate 5mA max

Giving me grand total of 305mA, and on a set of 2200-3000 mAH batteries source would give me at least 7-10 hours of runtime, assuming there’s no drop off in voltage as they drain.

Another interesting idea – Andrew Schwartz is using one 24v cordless drill battery in his dome and converting to 12v and 9v where required.

Weight and space might also be an issue, but I’ve seen domes with huge D type battery packs installed and hoping for a cleaner/rechargeable solution giving me the 12v and 24v in one set of rechargeable batteries.

My R2 Bell…I mean JAG Center Ankle showed up today. Very nice work as always.

P.S. It does make a really nice bell sound when you strike it.

Spent the night researching and thinking about the R2 Blue I’ll use. I know I’ll never be 100% screen accurate as there’s no such thing due to all the lighting changes and various R2s used over the years. But I really do like the original purpley blue and would like to get as close to it or th the R2-D2 Hypothetical Blue (or Hypo Blue for short) without busting the bank.

Here’s a good example of how different paints were used on screen used R2’s

Custom paint is probably out of the question and there seems to be 3 current popular variations on the blue builders are using. Only one of which IMHO has a true rich purple undertone.

So in no particular order, here’s a rough list of what I could find people using today –

Calvin and PixelFiend are using Duplicolor Royal Blue (AutoZone), with a Rustoleum Black Primer and Duplicolor Clear Coat.

Ed/Ryan are using Rustoleum Cobalt Blue Metallic #7251 (Orchard) with a Rustoleum Clear Coat. I also used the Cobalt Blue on my X-wing helmet 4 years ago and have included samples in the comparison shot.

Victor uses a variation on the Krider Blue method –

Rustoleum white primer, #1981
Rustoleum Metallic Purple, #7255 (some Ace Hardware stores)
Dupli-Color Anodized Blue, #MC201 (Kragen)
Rustoleum Crystal Clear Enamel, #7701

I spent 4 hours on Saturday driving around finding samples of each to do my own testing. The most difficult to find was the Duplicolor blue as all the Autozones locally only carried it in small 5oz cans, and then only had one at each store. When I asked if they could special order they said no, and that the ordering system is automated and to expect more in on Wednesday – but the issue is they will only drop off one 5oz can to replace the can i bought!

So before I blew thru almost $60 of paint I thought I’d try and pull together a few images of various samples I could find from fellow builders and comparisons to movie shots. The image is huge so please be patient with the download.

The Krider Blue is certainly closest to the Hypo Blue, especially when looking at stills from the new movies, and in some photos the Duplicolor Royal Blue is close, but in others it’s way off and really doesn’t have the purple punch I’m looking for! Plus it might take me months to get a good supply.

I like the Cobalt Blue on my X-wing helmet, but it’s too dark and doesn’t have much of any purple in it.

I was hoping I could get close to the Original Trilogy R2 blue, but I don’t think I will be able, so I’m think I’m going to start my tests by copying Victor’s Krider method and if it’s easy, stick with that – but if it looks like it’s a pain move on to test the Duplicolor.

I got a lot done this weekend. All the major/required holes are now drilled out and test fitting of all the bits that poke through.

Took my time on the last hole, the back PSI, as there wasn’t any room for error. I used the same hole cutter method as before but went extra slow and double checked all my measurements.

I also installed all the holoprojectors with some screws that go through the inner dome.

I still need to JB weld the screws in and I’m not sure if I’m happy with the result. I’m worried that the screws may eventually give out or pull through the dome.

I got to work on some of the electronics and made up some quick housing for the PSI circuits. Nothing fancy just some 1 1/4″ PVC pipe couplers and end stops/plugs. I cut down/sanded the plug make it easier to remove, and added a slot to feed the wires in. I also stuffed the tube with some bubble wrap to help diffuse the light. Eventually I’ll change the wire and hotglue the circuit board into the cap/plug.

I was anxious to do a full test fit of all the dome parts installed, so here’s a quick photo of th rear logic and a holoprojector installed

Here’s a test video of the rear logic and psi in action (ignore the wrong color on the PSI 🙂 )

Now I need to cut out the final outer dome panels and start thinking about painting.

I guess I also need to decide if I’m going to cut the remaining pie panels to make them open.

I’ve made a bit of progress on the dome the last few days. Cut out all but one of the essential holes, and if my drill hadn’t died tonight I’d have gotten them all done.

So now all three holoprojectors fit as well as the front and rear logic and one of the PSI holes.

I also started constructing tubes to house the PSI logic, cut some milk cute acrylic for the lenses, and started thinking about screw placement on the dome to secure things down.

With a bit of luck I’ll have everything fitted tomorrow and will then consider if I want to cut any extra panels out for more fancy things in the future.

This afternoon I also did a 4 hour road trip looking for various spray paints to do some color testing. I’m hoping in the next day or so I’ll get a chance to create some paint samples and post my results.

Got my Coin Returns from Wayne today. Super sweet. Here’s a couple of quick pictures. Click to enlarge.

After a lot of thinking and consulting with Victor and Calvin I decide I’m pretty much done with the dome sanding/fitting. There’s some minor gaps but I can tweak them later and some may work themselves out for various reasons and decisions later.

I think I’ve been procrastinating and using the gaps as an excuse not to starting cutting some holes, so tonight was the night.

I started off with an easy one – the front holoprojector. It went a lot quicker and easier than I’d thought and the result was excellent if I do say so myself.

Basic Steps

• Overlay outer dome and mark circle.
• Find center of circle using some quick math.
• Decide on diameter of hole to cut and first mark with a compass then set the drill hole cutting tool the same.
• Double check slightly larger marked hole with outer dome again.
• Center punch hole.
• Drill pilot hole.
• Drill hole the same size as drill cutting tool bit.
• Start cutting.
• At some point I broke thru on some spots so stopped.
• Dremeled pie wedges using a reinforced cut-off wheel and snapped off the pieces when done.
• File off burrs, hold breath and test fit.

That’s it, and to be honest it was pretty easy really. I’d decide to make the hole exactly the same diameter as the outer hole. If I screwed up I figured I could always sand/file it bigger, but making it too big might be a problem. The holoprojector fit perfectly and a quick test fit of the dome looked really good.

Check out this video of my wobbling/bobbing drill bit.

I was about to drill another when the battery died on my cordless drill, so I’ll have to wait till tomorrow now.