I did some further testing of the periscope lift mech tonite. Got it partially installed in the dome. Just placed inside on the dome plate to see how much room I had to play with all around.

I was hoping I’d have enough space in there to add a small servo to rotate the periscope as the mech only raises and lowers – But it really doesn’t look like I’ll have the room.
I also need to widen the hole in the dome as the periscope housing touches in several spots.

I think things will improve once I get the housing glued together and more square, but this was a good test to make sure I’m on the right track.

I’m going to sleep on it tonite and try and figure how I can get the thing to rotate – even if it’s just 90 degrees.

As it lowers you can see that it touches the dome.

Big milestone for me tonight. I finally got around to wiring up my dome periscope lift mech to a speed controller and my VexLabs RC setup.

This is my first time wiring up anything like this, so I was a bit apprehensive. The good news is I didn’t pop anything and it worked first time.

I was really surprised on how fast the little motor spun the mech up and down. So fast that the threaded rod squeals a bit. I may have to program in limits on the controller to cap the max speed.

Here’s a quick photo of the test setup and a video

For the test I used a SyRen10 Speed Controller.

I’d previously mentioned the problem I have that the rear logic display requires 24v to run.

I’m considering using some slim 12v battery packs to run all the dome electronics as I’d rather not run a seperate 24v line up from the main batteries.
For Example, these batteries may do the trick –

2 x 12V 3000 mAh NiMH Battery Packs for Airsoft Guns or 2 thin 12V SLA 2200 mAh Batteries

Apart from rear logic my dome electronics can mostly run on anything from 9v – 12v. I’d connect the 12v batteries in series to make 24v for the rear logic and tapping off one to get the 12v. Maybe balancing circuits off each 12v battery to help spread the load.

I’m hoping for a 6-8 hour runtime on a single charge and a breakdown on the mA required are as follows –
2 x PSI (9v) = 100 mA each, 200mA total
2 x Front Logic Displays (9v) = 50mA total
108 LED Rear Logic Display (24v) = 1-5mA for the PIC Flasher, 45 mA for the LEDs, 50mA total
Front Holoprojector = Undecided/Unknown. Estimate 5mA max

Giving me grand total of 305mA, and on a set of 2200-3000 mAH batteries source would give me at least 7-10 hours of runtime, assuming there’s no drop off in voltage as they drain.

Another interesting idea – Andrew Schwartz is using one 24v cordless drill battery in his dome and converting to 12v and 9v where required.

Weight and space might also be an issue, but I’ve seen domes with huge D type battery packs installed and hoping for a cleaner/rechargeable solution giving me the 12v and 24v in one set of rechargeable batteries.

I got a lot done this weekend. All the major/required holes are now drilled out and test fitting of all the bits that poke through.

Took my time on the last hole, the back PSI, as there wasn’t any room for error. I used the same hole cutter method as before but went extra slow and double checked all my measurements.

I also installed all the holoprojectors with some screws that go through the inner dome.

I still need to JB weld the screws in and I’m not sure if I’m happy with the result. I’m worried that the screws may eventually give out or pull through the dome.

I got to work on some of the electronics and made up some quick housing for the PSI circuits. Nothing fancy just some 1 1/4″ PVC pipe couplers and end stops/plugs. I cut down/sanded the plug make it easier to remove, and added a slot to feed the wires in. I also stuffed the tube with some bubble wrap to help diffuse the light. Eventually I’ll change the wire and hotglue the circuit board into the cap/plug.

I was anxious to do a full test fit of all the dome parts installed, so here’s a quick photo of th rear logic and a holoprojector installed

Here’s a test video of the rear logic and psi in action (ignore the wrong color on the PSI 🙂 )

Now I need to cut out the final outer dome panels and start thinking about painting.

I guess I also need to decide if I’m going to cut the remaining pie panels to make them open.

Just got the PSI Blinker Units from Fiber Optic Products.

This is somewhat of a warning, and time saver to others to get the right thing the first time. If you’ve ever tried to use their website you’ll understand my frustration and confusion. And their return policy is a nightmare to read. They’re email address also doesn’t work and they never answer the phone.

I’d ordered the Dual LED Blinker Unit based on recommendations on the Builders Forum

There’s two reasons I’m disappointed, 1) the flash/blink is not very accurate at all, and 2) the description reads like the flash rate was adjustable – but they’re not. Here’s the text from the website –

“The New R2D2 Unit will flash the Red Long, Blue Short, or Yellow Long, Green Short. The Duel-2 unit has adjustable speed for each LED. Please select color choice. DO NOT turn pot full or you will burn out unit!”

They have another well hidden page that’s the New Dual-2.

I know I know, they say that in the text for the Dual but it sounded like that’s what I was ordering.

Boards look identical BTW – just a variable resistors/pots in two spots instead of a fix resistor, so I may try and swap them out if I can’t return them.

The only saving thing was that they’re were only $8.50 a piece.

I really should have just waited for the next PSI run from Dan.

I also got a chance to work/think on the rear logic display some today.

Here’s a quick picture. Again I was lucky to pick this up pre-assembled (thanks Tom).

It works great and once I put it in the dome this will help bring R2 to life.

It’s not as fancy or as elegant as the front logic displays. There’s 108 LEDs on a bread-board sequenced by a PIC Flasher. The PIC requires 9 volts, and the LEDs 24 volts. So it requires multiple connections and difference batteries.

My original plan for the dome was to have a self contained rechargeable power source, preferably 12 volt. But the 24 volt requirement throws a spanner in the works.

It would be great if I could up-convert the 12v to 24v. It can be done I’m told by some friends who know a lot more than me, but it maybe expensive or wasteful on the battery. So I need to figure out the power requirements of the LEDs and calculate the size of the DC to DC
converter.

The simple solution would be to have 2 x 12v batteries in series in the dome, but again I’d rather avoid the extra weight.

Front logic electronics arrived today. What a cool thing these are – the wife wasn’t as easily impressed as me though.
I was lucky that the boards I ordered came pre-assembled so I avoided soldering 80 tiny LED into a super small space.
They also came with Damien black bezels – yet another great product.

One gotcha that caught me when wiring up the red connectors provided, don’t wire up based on the numbers on the connectors. Follow the tutorial as the boards pin outs are the opposite. My heart sank for a moment, but I soon realized what I’d done.

A few more parts arrived today: Rear Logic Electronics, Aluminum Front Logic Sorrounds , Aluminum Feet Half Moons.

I also placed an order with Jerry for a Center Ankle. It’s in stock so should ship soon.